Ktm Smc 690 R 2013

Admin Desember 04, 2021

Ktm Smc 690 R 2013

Page 1 of 21

Chapter 0 - Introduction
My attempt here is to produce an idiots guide basically written by an idiot.

The guide is directly written for KTM 690 2008-2013 year models as these have the two ECU configuration and the ECUs can be accessed using the free program TuneECU. 2014 and newer models have a single ECU and TuneECU cannot yet access these ECUs. Much of the sensor information and preventative measures are however still valid for the later models.

Also check out my other threads for further useful info on the 690:

KTM 690 Troubleshooting Guide
My Original KTM 690 Rally Raid Build and History So Far

I will placemat the first 10 posts in this thread so that I can put Chapters up as I finish them and keep all the facts on the first page of the thread. I have read numerous forums and threads to gather this info and my attempt here is to collate the information into one place in a logical sequence to save you the effort of searching, like I had too. I am not claiming to be an expert I am just acting as a conduit to gather the knowledge of multiple forums and posts into one place.

Some information will be incomplete and some may be incorrect, the idea is I post it up and people can PM me corrections or additional information so it builds into a concise and accurate guide.

If you have questions you can post them up, but make sure the answer is NOT already covered in the guide first and then the collective can come up with the answer and I can add it to the guide.

Disclaimer

Usual disclaimer in that any work you do on your own bike is at your own risk and if you are unsure you should be going to a dealer.
If your bike is in warranty anything you do here will void your warranty.
This guide is to help those who are mechanically efficient and computer literate who just want the facts in one place, the guide will not make you an engineer overnight. Don't mess with your bike unless you are completely confident you know what you are doing and have fully researched the subject.

Resources

These are the major sources for the information I have produced.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269
http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?113690-FREE-KTM-690-Tuning-Software!&
http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issues
http://www.tuneecu.com/
Books:
How to Tune And Modify Motorcycle Engine Management Systems, Tracy Martin
Chapter 1 - The basics about KTM 690 EFI

KTM 690 models 2008-2013 all have the same Keihin EFI system. This EFI system is different in a number of ways than on most - if not all - other bikes. It uses a 46mm single valve throttle body with two ECUs. One ECU controls the fuelling & ignition and the other controls the throttle valve through semi ride-by-wire. The ECUs interact with each other communicating over a CAN-BUS connection. The two cables from the throttle grip hook up to the throttle valve but the ECU has the ability to 'take over' if needed. Closing the throttle valve is 'hard wired' for safety reasons. Under normal conditions the throttle valve will follow the commands from the rider 1:1 but if the throttle commands get outside the working parameters of the engine, the ECU will take over controlling the throttle valve in a way that the engine will keep performing to its optimum. For instance; whacking the throttle wide open in a split second at 2500 RPM in 5th gear will normally stall the engine. This is when the throttle ECU takes over and opens the throttle as quickly as the engine will allow without stalling, a neat and sophisticated system that works really well. The fact that you never feel the ECU taking over when riding a 690 kind of shows how good it works.
Basic Mapping

Because of the setup with two ECUs the 'mapping' or 'fuel map' for a 690 also consists of two parts/files. A map (file) for the fuelling: ....FIMap.hex and a file for the throttle: ....EPMap.hex. This has led to problems and confusion with both dealers and owners. The two parts of a fuel map belong together and are NOT interchangeable with other fuel maps. When updating or changing the fuel map it is critical that both files are downloaded to the bikes' ECUs.
- EPT map: Determines the amount of throttle body opening relative to handlebar throttle input. Adjustment of this fly-by-wire throttle permits dramatic changes in response of the engine to throttle input. This system is what causes a lot of the twitchiness in the throttle.
- FI map: Determines the amount of fuel delivered depending on engine load, RPM and throttle body input. This map may utilize the oxygen sensor or the SAI (secondary air intake) but these can be selected OFF.
Later we will use a program called TuneECU to access these maps, the program allows us to access certain data from these maps but we do not see all of the functions. You will see that the EPT map takes longer to read than the FI map even though it appears to do less in the way of mapping tables and that is because there are other built in functions that TuneECU will not let us access. The modern engine management systems have monitoring circuits to make sure certain parameters are not exceeded and the result can be a "fuel-cut" signal being sent from the ECU, unfortunately there is very little information available about the effects of this and what parameters are monitored.
The naming convention for map files indicates the year grouping that the map is applicable to, in this example the 11 indicates applicable to 2011 bikes only:
- KM765EU 11 B0231FIMap.hex
The models EFI systems differ and therefore are grouped according to year model.
- 2008-2010 map code 08
- 2011 map code 11
- 2012-2013 map code 12
Mapsets available for different set ups:
There are various KTM Map sets (EPT / FI) available for each of the different year groups as follows:
- Standard - Standard air filter and catalytic converter exhaust.
- Akrapovic - applicable to most performance pipes - runs lean at lower RPMs runs rich up higher.
- EVO1 - applicable to most performance pipes with the addition of the opened up airbox lid. The best map from KTM and the best bike set up.
- EVO2 - applicable to most performance pipes plus the opened up airbox lid plus performance camshaft.
Each mapset actually contains submaps that look like excel spreadsheets that give different values for each combination of RPM,Throttle setting, pressure etc etc. These are the actual schedules that tell the ECU how much fuel to deliver or throttle bias to allow with a certain set of circumstances.
FI Map Submaps:
- F submap is the fuel mapping based on throttle position, it shows injection pulse width according to throttle plate [email protected] given rpm
- F Trim Adjustment for the fuel table F (in%)
- L submap is the fuel mapping based manifold pressure, injection pulse width according to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) @ given rpm
- I table is the ignition mapping
- I Trim Correction tables for Ignition advance (I) in degrees.
- F-L switch submap sets the threshold where the vacuum mapping goes over into the throttle mapping.
EP Submaps:
- Throttle submap is the throttle by wire map, shows percentage throttle for each RPM thus affecting the sensitivity of the throttle, 100% is basically 1 to 1 ratio.
There is a different F,L,I and Throttle submap for each number on the map select switch dial under your seat (0,1,2,3) If you are in position 2 on the dial then you will be using L1, F1, I1, and Throttle "performance" submaps.
Obviously KTM have set these tables up to accommodate the different set ups of exhaust and air filter, but remember they have to meet stringent emission regulations and hence the tables all have calculations based on emission regs and not necessarily the optimum settings, later you will see how we can customise these individual submaps to fine tune for optimum performance.

Map Select Switch under the seat

The Map select switch under the seat has 10 positions these relate to the following settings:

0 - Poor fuel
1 - Soft
2 - Performance
3 - Standard (4-9 is the same)

As discussed above these settings will change which submaps the ECU is using to control the engine.
With some of the maps all of the "L" maps are the same, all of the "F" maps are the same and all of the "I" maps are the same (except for "I low octane fuel"). So in these cases, the only change to feel or performance that this switch does is to change the EP map which only affects the throttle sensitivity.
Chapter 2 - Diagnosing EFI

Understand that these bikes have issues with fuel quality and operation of the fuel pump.
The rear filler design and the minute fuel injector nozzle mean that crap can get in and stop the bike. In normal use the pump attracts a grey residue from the fuel tank material that will eventually block filters. Also the plumbing of the pump can get kinked lines and electrical connectors can work loose. So make sure that you eradicate all pump and injector issues before trying to diagnose an EFI fault.
EFI systems are electrically controlled and driven, fault monitoring circuits therefore can only detect electrical faults and monitor for extremes i.e. open circuit or short circuit. If a sensor is misreading it will not be detected as a fault until its parameters go outside of set limits. If any sensors go outside limits you will get a flashing FI light and the KTM operators manual will be able to interpret the blink code which is kind of like morse code from the FI light blinking so many long and short blinks.

If you have a mechanical fault, a sensor reading incorrectly or an incorrectly adjusted sensor there will be no warning. If you have a combination of a couple of faults it can get very hard to diagnose, particularly if you are dealership mechanic on a tight timeframe servicing a multitude of weaponry you simply won't have the time to get fully up to speed on one particular model. My thoughts are that you as the owner need to become an expert.

As KTM use a specific KTM diagnostics box to read and adjust the ECUs the price is inhibitive for the general home mechanic however some bright spark came up with a program called TuneECU.

ECU Fault Monitoring

The ECU monitors many items for electrical faults and is looking for them to be in a set range, if outside these values the ECU will give a fault. Several sensors are purely there to fine tune emissions to get the bike to pass the stringent European legislation and in most cases these systems are what upsets the ride- ability of the bike and they can be disabled without any issues.

As there are so many sensors obviously the more you can disable then the less likely you will get a fault. KTM terminology is not consistent through their manuals so some names may vary depending on what manual you are looking at.

SENSOR INFORMATION
- System Voltage - EFI systems are sensitive to volts and need a minimum voltage to work. If the volts aint right the whole system will be doing strange things.
- Crankshaft Position Sensor - Determines engine speed and Top Dead Centre position. Located in engine LH Side cover, cable comes out just above clutch servo, just a pulse coil sensing rotor.
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor - changes fuel schedule during cold starting. Just below spark plug. Its unproven but may shut the engine down if close to overheat.
- Sidestand switch - Can be removed and resistor put in its place, down by sidestand pivot point. Stops the engine if the stand is down and the bike is put into gear.
- Ignition Coil - EFI monitors coil resistance to detect faults.
- Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Located inside the airbox it trims fuel mixture dependent on intake temperature. Can be damaged by oil contamination. Connector wires are quite often damaged during airbox removal. NTC thermistor resistance varies with Temp -20ºC (18.8K) and +40ºC (1.136 K). Mine was about 2K at about +20ºC dropping to 0.2K with a heat gun. Think about rerouting the gearbox vent out of the airbox and running to an external pod filter to keep the airbox cooler.
- Ambient Air Pressure Sensor - Located under the instrument cluster behind the headlight, the sensing tube must be pointing down otherwise it can get clogged with crap.
- Rollover Sensor - Like a crash switch, just in behind the rear brake reservoir. Shuts engine down if the bike is laid down. Can stop engine restarting if it sticks, bike will run with it disconnected but don't keep it like that as an EFI bike will continue to run upside down lying on your broken leg if you crash.
- Gear position sensor - Prevents starting if the engine is in gear as you need the neutral light to allow power to the starter motor unless clutch switch is pulled in. Neutral switch also sets the neutral fuel map which restricts max RPM in neutral, if you have a switch fault it can give random neutral light and loss of power. Can disconnect the connector and bike will still run but with FI light on. Sensor is down by the gear lever, just follow the loom up. Also contains 3rd and 4th/ Gear switches which limit power for emissions control in those gear's changeover and can be disabled by disconnecting the switches or automatically in certain maps.
- Lambda Sensor - Senses O2 in the exhaust to trim the fuel mixture a little, this is turned off with Akra / EVO1 Performance Mapping loaded. Located in the exhaust just below the radiator. Cold engine uses open loop and it switches to closed loop as soon as the lambda sensors reach their operating temperature, This might have something to do with the issue that few people have reported (the bike stalls after 10 secs. ECU will use open loop operation in warm engine also whenever there is enough engine load (acceleration). The O2 sensor is only a narrow band sensor and therefore hasn't got much authority over fuel flow; it can only make slight adjustments, more for emission control.
- Fuel Pump Controller - There is no separate controller and in fact the ECU controls the pump operation by providing its earth, to check the pump turn the key on and listen for pump to prime, it runs for a couple of secs. Alternatively leave the key on and flick the kill switch On and Off a few times as the pump will run for a couple of secs each time the kill switch is put to run.
- Lambda Sensor Heater - Heater in the O2 sensor.
- Fuel Evaporation Valve - USA Models only
- Secondary Air Valve - Commonly called SAS, turned off with Performance Mapping loaded or can be manually turned off with TuneECU program. LH Side mounted by the side of the airbox up near the radiator. Can remove SAS completely but need to fit a resistor to remove FI light. Can turn off in TuneECU and remove system without having to fit resistors.
The following are part of the throttle body and it comes as one unit for a lot of money, KTM engineers answer to fault diagnosis is change the big bit first but they can be on back order for weeks:

Throttle Position Sensor (Circuit A) - referred to as THAD in the KTM Manual, it is on the LH Side of throttle body and senses the throttle body butterfly valve position.

Accelerator Position Sensor - referred to as APAD in the KTM Manual, RH Side of throttle body and senses the cable input from the throttle.

Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor - On top of the throttle body. The engine ECU uses barometric pressure to get ideal air/fuel mixture, thinner air = less fuel. 1013 hPa at sea level and 15 degrees Celsius air temperature is normal pressure. Barometric air pressure will vary from 960 to 1050 hPa. 988 hPa is normal with engine off, when you start the engine and rev it, more suction = less pressure.

Motor Drive - this electrical motor drives the throttle body butterfly valve.

Motor Drive Hall Sensor

Motor Drive Voltage

These are monitored circuits that you can't do much about:
- CAN Bus Communication - electronic communication between system components.
- EPT Motor Drive Relay Permission - Probably internal circuitry in the ECU.
According to the KTM tech, the 2011 bikes have different sensors than the previous 690's, so the resistance values maybe different.
Don'ts with EFI

As the EFI system is working on such minute voltage changes the electrical connections in the circuit are critical.
- Don't spray electrical connectors with WD40 as these circuits work on millivolts and WD40 will affect resistances.
- Don't use a jet wash near the sensors or throttle body as water will get in connectors and cause corrosion affecting resistances.
Chapter 3 - TuneECU

TuneECU is a free program that can be used instead of the KTM Diagnostic tool. Please donate to the users if you find the program useful to help them keep the project going.
The program will allow you to access diagnostics, read sensor values, set up sensors, read / reset fault codes and read / change mapping.
EFI systems all follow a set format called OBDII so a standard cable is used just with an adapter lead to the KTM connector under the seat.
It is highly important to buy a good quality cable from a reputable distributor as many have had problems with cheap ebay alternates. I bought mine from here: http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/ .
Use extra care when disconnecting the cable from your bike, by that I mean pull on the right part of the plug housing and not the cable/harness so as not to encourage it coming apart.
So go to this website and read all about it and download and read the user guide to fully understand how it works.

http://www.tuneecu.com/
To set the system up on your laptop you will need to download the following:
- The program
- The drivers for the cable (these are specific to your computer operating system. Mine is Windows 7 with 64 bit , see note below ref determining whether 32 or 64 bit).
- The maps
The website has strict recommendations on how and where to store these files on your computer and making sure that the computer is not on the internet when first connecting the lead as you don't want it to use any drivers from the internet, it must use the specified driver that you download.
Once up to speed with TuneECU you will be able to read and save current maps and flash new ones. You will also be able to access the diagnostics page and read real time sensor values and set up your Throttle Position Sensor.

Installing Drivers

Installing the cable drivers is probably the most difficult part of the whole process as computers now automate this process and it can be hard to stop that automatic process to insist on installing your own specific drivers.

These installation guides can help to overcome any issues depending on your operating system:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/InstallGuides.htm

How to determine whether your Windows 7 is 32 Bit or 64 Bit.
Click the Start button, right-click Computer, and then click Properties.
If "64-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type, you're running the 64-bit version of Windows 7.
If "32-bit Operating System" is listed next to System type, you're running the 32-bit version of Windows 7.

Download the corresponding Driver for your cable from here:

http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm

Now watch the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctNjC_7HtjE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hE2GnnqWWE

How to see what Map is loaded on your bike
When you are connected with the bike in tune ECU, in Map Edit, you will see ECU info in the top left corner, ECU serial, ECU map, checksum. You can toggle between the two ECUs to each of the two map names by clicking on the map name.
Or
When you are in the Map Edit, you press ECU - then Read Map - and here you can choose to read FI or EP map and the map code stands there to, just click cancel if you don't want to read them to the computer.

Working with Maps on the bike

When you are connected with the bike in tune ECU you must understand that the display panel will tell you what map is loaded on the bike and you can "read" and "save" that map and "download" a new map but you cannot make "live" changes to the currently installed map.
To explain it another way if you wanted to customise the current maps that are on the bike you would have to "read" them to display them in Tune ECU then make the changes in TuneECU before downloading them back to the bike. So you can see you only need to connect to the bike to "read", "save" or "download". All work to be done to change or customise mapping can be done in TuneECU whilst disconnected from the bike.
Chapter 4 - Remapping
WARNINGS - READ THESE OR ELSE:

Make sure that you have a decent charge in your battery or hook it up to a tender/charger. Reading maps from your bike takes about 45min and re-writing, re-mapping, (downloading, flashing) takes just about few minutes.
If the power drops out or computer trips up during this process the ECU will freeze, if this happens you will need to carefully read the TuneECU guide to recover the ECU. This is the risky side of this operation so make sure you have back up for your bike battery and that your laptop isn't going to run out half way through either.

Don't have any other EFI Programs running on your computer whilst connected to the bike as some can cause damage. Only use the TuneECU program whilst connected.

Procedure:

1. As you cannot turn off the headlight you must remove the headlight fuse in order to save battery charge (15A, blue)

2. Locate the ECU test connection and carefully remove the blanking plug. Attach the cable to your bike and turn the ignition ON. (You can connect the cables wrong, check out the pins and make sure you orientate the plug correctly before pushing it in)

3. Start up the TuneECU software.
Three views are possible and can be selected in the top right-hand-corner.
- Maps - allows view and editing of maps
- Diagnostics - Allow you to see a wide variety of parameters the ECU is monitoring such as barometric pressure, oil temp, ambient temp, engine load, throttle voltage.
- Tests - Allows you to perform several tests on the bike via the ECU
NOTE: When opening the program for the first time the opening screen is set to Triumph by default, it will change to KTM upon connection or loading a map.
NOTE: As a default, it should connect to your bike. If it doesn't, select the ECU menu and click connect. You will see in the "Options" menu a selection for "Auto Connect" and you can select this if you like, if working in TuneECU whilst disconnected from the bike it is best to uncheck this to stop the annoying pop up telling you it can't connect.

Within 30 seconds, a little rectangle will blink in the lower right-hand-corner of the application. Initially it will be red when sensing the connection and turn to green once a connection is established.

4. After a while TuneECU has read the sensor readings.

5. Move to the "Download" page. Reading your currently installed map and saving it is recommended as a fail-safe feature at least if your recent map is not available at TuneECU site. Just make a backup.
The Green arrow below shows the ECU info and this will indicate what map is currently loaded in the bike, you can click on the Map number and it will toggle between the EP map number and the FI map number.

NOTE: TuneECU does not display the Maps currently loaded on the bike in the tables, the table displayed is the last map that you chose to "open" or "read" it is not looking "live" at the map that is on the bike. You can see the Red arrow shows the computer address of the map that is currently being displayed.

To display the map currently installed in the bike you must first "Read" the map. To do this from the ECU menu select Read.

6. TuneECU software will ask which map you want to Read. Select the first map and select Read. TuneECU will then commence reading the map and copying it to the tables. A green progress bar will appear at the bottom of the tables which will indicate the percentage read.
NOTE: The FI map takes about 10 mins but the EP map takes about 30 mins.

BE PATIENT AND DON'T MESS WITH ANYTHING.

7. After the Map has finished being read you must then save the map to your laptop so you keep a copy of what was originally installed in case you have a problem. Select the File Menu and click on Save Map File.

8. Create a folder for the existing maps and save to that folder.

9. Now repeat the "read and save" process for the EP Map.
10. Now the old maps are secured it is time to install new ones.
Select File Menu and click on Open Map File.

11. Open the map that you're going to install starting with the EP Map. In this case we are installing the EVO1 maps for a 2011 bike.

12. Once you have opened your new map it will be displayed in the tables. To Install the map on the bike select the ECU menu and click on Download. A warning will pop up explaining the dangers of loading an incorrect map, this is a standard warning that will always show and acts as a timely reminder to ensure you have selected the correct map. Click Ok and the download to the bike will commence. It only takes a couple of minutes and again you will see the progress bar as this happens.
NOTE: The Red circle in the screenshot shows the path to the map file which is going to be downloaded.

13. After the EP map install you must do a Throttle Calibration. The bike remains hooked up through this process so you can monitor the throttle calibration with TuneECU. Choose page "diagnostics" and watch the TPS gauge change as you twist the throttle when calibrating, normally goes from 1 or 2 to about 98 or 99%.
Carry out as follows:

Turn the ignition off for 10 secs
- Turn ignition back on and Twist the throttle grip slowly to full open and then slowly to full close and then turn the ignition back off.
- Turn the ignition back on and make sure TuneECU reconnects automatically and you get a green bar again in the bottom RH corner.
14. Repeat items 12 and 13 to install the FI map with the following addition:
Once you have opened the FI map you need to make sure you have the right boxes ticked on or off under the "Devices" heading. If you have SAS plugged, you should uncheck the SAI box. If you have the O2 lambda sensor removed you should uncheck the O2 box. If they are still fitted you can decide whether to just electrically disable them or not just by unchecking each box, I would recommend they be disabled for smoother running if you do not have the standard exhaust still fitted.
NOTE: as long as these check boxes are unchecked i.e. disabled the sensors can be removed WITHOUT having to fit a slave resistor and there will be no FI warnings and map loading will work fine with them not fitted.

Now download the FI map to the bike as we did before for the EP map.

NOTE: The Red circle in the screenshot below shows the path to the map file which is going to be downloaded.

15. After the FI map is installed you must do the 15 min "adaptation" run as follows:
NOTE: The engine must be stone cold and throughout the process do not touch the throttle. Leave the bike connected to the laptop but make sure the cabling is away from the exhaust heat.
- Start the engine and let it run for 15 min.
- After 15 mins Kill the engine with the ignition key.
You can monitor the 15 min adaptation run with TuneECU. Choose page "diagnostics" and watch the IAT and Coolant Temp rise when idling and the fan kicking in and out to control water temp.
16. Once complete and with the ignition off, shutdown the TuneECU program and disconnect the cable.
Remember to reinstall the blanking cap on the ECU connector and then restow it out of harms way. Refit the headlight fuse and refit the seat. Job done.
Chapter 5 - Tune ECU Experimentation

For a more in-depth look into customising maps check out this link
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666269

Warning.
When customising maps you can seriously damage your engine. It is best to have the mapping customised by an expert with the bike on a dyno.
Customising Maps
The F map is usable at high engine load when MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) is close to atmosphere or there is just a little under pressure.

The L map is usable at low engine load, when there is much under pressure.

When you are cruising at suburban speeds the throttle plate is almost completely shut. The pressure in the manifold is very low. L-map starts from 190 hPa, which is approx. 0,19 * atmospheric pressure. KTM 690 fuel pressure is 3,5 bar or 3500 hPa. The amount of fuel being delivered to the manifold is defined by 2 things; pulse width (injector open) + pressure difference. Injecting the same, let's say 8000 µs, at 0,2 bar MAP compared to 0,9 bar MAP makes 19% difference in the amount of fuel injected. That makes a lot in terms of Air Fuel Ratio (AFR). Therefore, you need to match the pulse width to manifold (under) pressure.

The F-L switch map controls the point at which fuel scheduling goes from the L map to the F Map. The F-L map can be tweaked to read 10,10,0,0,0,0,0 and this means that the bike's ECU uses almost all the time the F map. 10 means 10% throttle as a limit to change using F map. At higher revs (1800 and up) the limit is 0%. So the bike is using the F map practically all the time.

The L map is more accurate at low engine load. That's where the jerky ride and stalling gremlin lives. L map has also the ability to adapt to changed airflow conditions like clogged air filter or changing atmospheric pressure (high elevation, barometric low).

In 690cc KTM 690 bikes (2012-) there is no need to tweak the F-L switch map.

The F-maps can be edited in two different ways:
- If you want to make a change that will be applied to all the F-maps you can select "Edit" from the drop-down menu and click the option to "use F-trim for all F tables". Then you can select the F-trim icon in the left hand column and then change all the "0s" to "4s". Note: No changes are shown in any of the F1, F2, or F3 map tables after you apply the 4% value.
- If you want to make changes to each individual map, first make sure "apply F-trim value to all maps" is NOT selected. Then you select a map you want to edit and highlight all the cells. Then adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right of the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will update. Select the next F-map and repeat.
The L-maps are changed the same way you change the F-maps individually. You select a map and then highlight all the cells and adjust the number in the box that appears in the lower right of the table. Hit enter and the map values in the table will update. Select the next L-map and repeat.
Always work on a renamed copy of the file and don't forget to save it.

Check out this link to the full process with pics:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15358449&postcount=13

When you really get into it then read this forum and join the elite:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657&page=3
Chapter 6 - KTM 690 - Stalling and throttle issues

Sourced from:
http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-690/Stalling-and-throttle-issues
A lot of 690 owners complain about stalling and/or a jerky throttle response. While there are differences between individual bikes (and their owners...), there seems to be no pattern in models or production years. Some bikes suffer more from stalling and throttle glitches than others. Most don't at all or only occasionally. But these niggles are usually easy to solve!

The fact that KTM 690s are a bit more sensitive to stalling and/or throttle issues is down to two important factors; performance and emission & noise regs. The 690 is one of the strongest 4-stroke singles on the market today, this means a relatively high state of tune, big valves, big ports, big throttle body, high compression, low rotating mass etc. But the 690 also has to meet the ever tougher regulations for emissions and noise. Power & performance do not go hand-in-hand with noise & emissions regs very well, especially not with a big single. The Lambda sensor controlled EFI keeps the engine on a super-lean mixture, catalytic converter(s), Secondary Air System, throttle restriction in 2nd & 3rd gear are all there to make it pass the murdering emission & noise regs. They do not help the engine... they do exactly the opposite. The high performance concept & design of the 690s combined with all the environmental measures makes them more sensitive to the right setup and adjustments.

But we all want that performance so stop moaning and deal with it properly. 95% of the stalling and throttle issues are easily solved and are usually only down to proper service and dealer knowledge.

These are the steps to follow to kill throttle gremlins:
1. Throttle calibration (All)
2. Idle reset procedure (All)
3. Throttle sensor check/adjustment (Values change depending on year model)
4. Idle CO check/adjustment
1. Throttle calibration
The simplest one. This re-calibrates the start & stop position of the throttle grip. Turn the ignition on but don't start. Wait for the tacho needle to return to zero. Then turn the throttle grip gradually from close to open and back from open to closed. Don't let it snap shut. Turn the ignition off, done.
2. Idle reset procedure
The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and don't expect miracles.

3. Throttle sensor check/adjustment
This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described before. There are two throttle sensors on the throttle body (where the carb used to be...). On the left hand side is the sensor controlled by the ECU. This one is used when the ECU takes over the control of the throttle valve from the rider (ride by wire with data from the throttle map). On the right hand side is the sensor connected to the throttle cables coming from the throttle grip. This is the one that makes you think you're in control. Both sensors interact with each other and each has its own base adjustment. It's not difficult to understand that these are important. The abbreviations in the maintenance & repair manual for these base adjustments are 'THAD' and 'APAD'. The procedure is pretty straightforward but precise. It shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes or so. After adjustment it makes sense to do a "Throttle Calibration" as per step 1 above. On the left side is the TPS "THAD" basic setting is 0.50 - 0.54v this is the throttle position for the ECU throttle butterfly closed with your finger. On the right side is the TPS "APAD" basic setting is 0.70 - 0.74v this is the throttle grip position sensor These settings are for the E model 2008-2010, the R model figures are below. Be aware there is a plastic drive key on the TPS driving the butterfly so be careful not to break it off by being to rough.

4. Idle & Load CO check/adjustment
This requires a KTM diagnostics tool hooked up to the bike or use TuneECU as described later. There is some control over the idle & load mixture through adjustment of the CO targets from the ECU. This is within a limited band with but enough to iron out idle or fueling glitches. Adjustments are made by up & down mouse-clicks with real time bar graphs on the screen that show what happens. Very easy. Only small changes at a time should be made. The effect of changes to the idle CO take a while to show in the graphs. The target for load CO (riding) is usually set at 1.000. This is Lambda 1 and corresponds to an air/fuel mixture of 1:14.7. Adjustment of this value goes in small steps of 0.008 but has a clear effect on the mixture throughout the rev range. Only one or two steps is enough. Not more because the mixture is likely to become too rich or lean. So if the mixture needs to be a little richer (probably) this would be 1.008 or 1.016. Ideally this should be done on a dyno but minor adjustments like this can be done by 'set & ride' too.

After these 4 steps, 99% of all idle and throttle glitches will be solved. Most already after steps 1 to 3. If not, something else is really wrong or malfunctioning but this is rarely the case. If so, there is a big chance the cause will show up on the diagnostics page of TuneECU in the error message log.

Idle Figures
2200 idle rpm when cold is normal, 1650 when hot is normal idle rpm.
Chapter 7 - Setting up the Throttle sensor.

Sourced from:
http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?115864-KTM-690-fix-staling-problem-using-TuneECU&highlight =
KTM 690 fix stalling problem using TuneECU

I spent a week trying to get the bike not to stall after loading any kind of map with after market slip-on exhaust. This is a guide on how to do it yourself in much less time.

Symptoms:
- Bike stalls after start up when cold. You need to fire it up every 10 or 30 sec. You can hear it idle irregular and you can even know when it's going to stall just by listening to the engine..
- Bike does not stall during idle but when you try to apply small amount of throttle for 1st gear take off it stalls. During idle try to open throttle by very small amounts Very slowly and you can hear engine running irregular or even stall.
Cause of the problem is in the two throttle sensors on each side of keihin throttle body. For the ECU to know how much throttle is opened, its sensors need to be reading the same voltage. If sensors are not aligned the ECU will think it has throttle opening of 3% while actual opening would be 5% or more, it can also go the other way around. Also if sensors are not aligned the ECU will not pickup small throttle openings that you apply around idle.
To fix this you need to use the TuneECU program, the voltage figures particular to your year model and some tools. To be able to unscrew throttle sensors you will need a torx t20 bit that has a hole in middle.

The procedure on how to adjust these 2 sensors can also be found in the 2008 KTM Repair manual from pages 165-169. I also advise to read it twice. In the manual this procedure is explained using the KTM diagnostic tool. You don't need the tool to adjust anything you just need it to read voltages so therefore you can use TuneECU instead as it will read and show the voltages.

Try to read all of the TuneECU guides to get familiar on how to use this software before u start to adjust sensors.

TPS Values in TuneECU Vary depending on year model :
Remember these values are with the stepper motor disconnected.
Earlier Models
690 DUKE from 2008 to 2010 included (except the R version).
690 SMC + 690 ENDURO + 690 ENDURO R from 2008 to 2010 included.
690 SM, SM limited, SM Prestige, SMR (all beaksters).
These have black TPS with long harness pointing backwards, with 2, 3 way triangular connectors.

TPS THAD:
0.5 V / 0.54 V with throttle blade closed (pushed closed with your finger)
AND the same at rest, 0.70 V / 0.74 V.

TPS APAD:
0.70 V / 0.74 V at rest.

Later Models

690 DUKE R 2010 + 2011
690 DUKE 2011 (non R)
690 SMC 2011
690 ENDURO R 2011 (no standard enduro in 2011)
690 SMC R 2012 + 2013
690 ENDURO R 2012 + 2013
These TPS have blue (harness side) flat connectors that point forward. 3 way connectors (both versions).
TPS THAD:
0.28 V / 0.32 V with throttle blade closed (pushed closed with your finger)
AND the same at rest, 0.53 V / 0.57 V.

TPS APAD:
0.28 V / 0.32 V at rest.

THAD = left side TPS = upper value in TuneECU (PC version).
APAD = ride side TPS = lower value in TuneECU (PC version).
"At rest" = "Don't touch it you fool!"
"Closed" = "Pushed closed with your finger."

Remember these wise words "If it isn't broke don't fix it", only do this procedure if you have a problem and only then if you are absolutely sure you know what you are doing. I believe KTM change the throttle body as a complete assembly so if you bugger it up it will be expensive.
Remember to disconnect the stepper motor before pushing with finger.

WARNING: Values in the Procedure below are for the "Earlier Models", if you have the "Later Models" substitute those figures where values are mentioned. These figures are unproven by myself as I have NEVER had issues with TPS. If the year model does not make sense with your figures then use the set of figures closest to your current settings.

Do this while engine is as cold as possible. Always consult manual first before doing any of this. I am not explaining how to turn every bolt around and I am using nuts and connector names and numbers as in the 2008 KTM repair manual.

1. Take off the seat, body fairing and air box (don't forget to unplug air temp sensor before you remove the air box),

2. Unplug the motor drive connector that's under the keihin throttle body on the left side of the bike (connector DR1 from manual). There are 2 connectors and DR1 is one that has more than 3 wires. You will know if you unplug the wrong one by hearing the drive motor working when you use your finger to fully close throttle valve (see repair manual on how to close it with your finger).

3. Now connect TuneECU to the bike and go to diagnostic menu. When its communicating with the bikes ECU you will see most of bikes sensors values appear in Diagnostic menu.

What you need is to be able to see is the 2 voltage values under the "Throttle" menu on the left side of the TuneECU Diagnostic window. Both upper and lower voltage should be round 0.70-0.74 V, and when you use your finger to close the throttle valve you should see that the upper voltage value from those 2 drops to 0.50-0.54V. Now if ANY of these voltages is only 0.1V off from what it should be you need to adjust all 3 readings.
NOTE: Apologies for the screenshot , as it is a shot from my 2011 the figures are obviously not the same as the 2008-2010 model that we are discussing.

4. Check that the upper voltage value drops to 0.50-0.54V when you press the throttle valve to the closed position with your finger. Do this gently as there is a plastic drive key that can be damaged. This is referred to in the manual as the Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A Basic Position - Voltage "THAD".

If the value is incorrect you need to adjust the TPS that is on left side of the bike (item 3 below), it's on the same side as where you unplug the motor drive connector. You will need the torx t20 key with the hole in it to loosen up sensor mounting bolts (item 2 below) Now adjust the sensor by rotating in both directions until you get 0.50-0.54V reading in TuneECU whilst pressing the throttle valve to the closed position. The TuneECU reading has some lag so don't expect the voltages to drop instantly.
Now make sure that the voltage reading stays adjusted AFTER you screw the sensor bolts tight.

Release the throttle valve and open and close the throttle 10 times.
Carefully close the throttle valve again with your finger and recheck the reading.
Continue the process until you get a consistent result.

5. Next check that the upper voltage value returns to 0.70-0.74V when you are NOT pressing the throttle valve to the closed position. This is referred to in the manual as the Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A Emergency running position - Voltage "THAD".
Release the throttle valve and open and close the throttle 10 times.

If the value is incorrect you need to adjust as follows:
Locate the adjustment point on the RH side of the throttle body.

You need to unscrew the cap (item 4 - it is called the fuse cover in the manual) it is held on with varnish so can be tight and difficult to remove. Once removed it will reveal the adjustment screw and locknut.

If you have trouble getting the cap off it is very easy to unscrew that side of the housing and do it on the bench.
Just disconnect the sensor plug then unscrew the upper and lower allen key headed bolts that secure the side cover. The screws are captive so just loosen them and pull the side off, if you wish disconnect the throttle cables and take it to the bench to work on.

When refitting the side cover hold the throttle butterfly closed with your finger before refitting the cover.
Once the cap is removed loosen the nut (item 5) and adjust the voltage with screw (item 6).

I found the manual guide not working for me since the top fuse cap was glued on to screw no.6 and nut no.5 was glued so hard to screw no.6 that I needed to take it out completely and use some method to hold screw no.6 while I turn nut no.5.
Also you need to ensure the screw is making contact with the throttle valve so turn it until you see a change in voltage and then back it off until you achieve the correct value.

Once you get this top voltage reading to 0.70-0.74V recheck the value after opening and closing the throttle 10 times until you get consistent results. Refit the cap.

6. Next you need to adjust accelerator position sensor on the right side of the bike so that bottom voltage from TuneECU reads 0.70-0.74V this is called the Throttle Grip Sensor - Voltage "APAD".

Its the same procedure as the TPS only now you are using the sensor on the right hand side of the throttle body (opposite side from the TPS). Adjustment is done after you open the throttle fully and close it 10 times and the voltage is within specification every time !

7. You need to turn the ignition off and back on, then wait until it connects to TuneECU and check AGAIN if all 3 voltages are in still within specification range.
Don't forget to do this after any sensors adjustment !
Chapter 8 - Stories

A success story on loading maps
This morning, I have installed the Evo 1 Airbox Lid, £21 from KTM dealer and mapped the bike with the KM765EU11B0232 maps using TuneECU, did the 15min idle initialisation run, turned off ignition, TPS reset, slowly open throttle to 100% and then slowly back down, I did this twice just in case and switch off the bike. During the 15min idle procedure, I even noticed the idle is much better than with standard Akra maps, you get this erratic idling when you start the bike, but with these maps, much better. Idle seems to be around 1650 after the 15mins idle procedure, blipped the throttle in neutral and 1st gear, no stalling so far. Went for a quick ride ... what a difference, it's a new bike, the Akra pipe even sounds better, especially when accelerating hard (front wheel also lifts, idle revs are constant ...
Throttle adjustment story
Sourced from: Post #144

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=685657&page=10

A couple important notes that I've learned that solved my stalling issues (knock on wood), for now anyway.
When adjusting the second voltage value in TuneEcu (upper voltage value 0.70~.74, butterfly not pressed closed), you adjust it by way of the nut/stud throttle stop adjuster. This is the stud that physically stops the movement of the butterfly when you let the throttle go back to its zero state. In my case, I was getting a voltage within range BUT, and this is a very important BUT... the adjuster stud was not resting against the butterfly stop. I believe this is the reason for my erratic idling, stalling and intermittent low end issues over all. Since the butterfly was not physically resting up against the adjuster stud, once running, it would physically bounce around ever so slightly causing stalling and other weird intermittent issues yet when checked with TuneEcu, was still in spec. So when adjusting this, make sure you screw the adjuster stud in far enough to see the voltage change a few hundredths of a volt, then as your backing it out again, watch the point at which the voltage no longer changes. If the voltage is no longer changing, the adjuster stud is no longer in contact with the butterfly stop. After doing this a few times you can actually feel when it makes contact. It needs to make contact. Having the throttle cables out of adjustment may also affect this.
Something else I ended up doing was adjusting all the voltage levels and then immediately firing it up. I only did the throttle calibration and did not plug in the air box or do the 15 min reset. I'd then see how it idled, test the response, and do quick blips to try and make it stall etc etc. Then once I was content, I waited overnight for a cold start & did the 15 min idle reset. This saved me lots of 15 min idle cycles while I was learning by trial and error as initially I tried many different voltage combinations, all within the allowable spec but just a bit different within the range. In my experience if it stalled before the idle reset, it would also stall after the idle reset.
Throttle Body Issue with 2008-2010
Sourced from: Post #17651 by Motomochila

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24714495&postcount=17651

2008-2010 690's all have a plastic gear in the throttle body that wears out and eventually slips back to idle, "limp" mode. Wide open everything seems OK- most of the time. The wear eventually causes stalling and erratic throttle. Partial throttle open, as in most off-road situations, the gear is in the "slip" area do the stripped or worn gear. HOW DO I KNOW THIS? My 2009 experienced all the symptoms that most have posted here. It finally did the ultimate FI failure in Copper canyon last November and I had to be towed out of the canyon for $600 bucks. I did every repair suggested to try and resolve the problem, spending months and way too much money swapping everything anybody said would work. nothin! Finally KTM's top guru in California coughs up this little bit of information regarding the throttle body failures on 690's. I actually saw close up the problem after my dealer replaced it this year, 2014, under warranty. I bought the 2009 new five years ago. The new throttle body has a metal gear. And now you know.
The 2009 runs absolutely perfect today. I gave it to my son and just bought a 2014.
2013 - Flash Code FI 2 long 7 short blips
Sourced from: Post #5005 by mrwocky117

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24495064&postcount=5005

Riding to Darwin via the Gulf and at @16:10 today, 20k north of Emerald, bike shits itself. Splutters, coughs, pull to the side, disconnect ECU, battery, wait awhile, reconnect all and still same fault. It's now in limp home mode.
The fault code indicated a "Throttle valve voltage fault " They tried to contact the KTM Tech's for advice, but no one was answering phones or returning calls, no emails answered either ! They checked the continuity of the wiring looms while waiting for KTM to get back to them. No problem there. The whole time we were present in the work shop, checking what was going on. The boys were honest and from the start admitted they didn't have much experience with what was happening. I contacted the guys where I purchased the bike from and they also tried to contact KTM Tech's with no luck. They said they had a Duke in there some time ago with the same FI code, "faulty Throttle drive motor in the throttle body", so they believed it to be the throttle body.
Had the new throttle body fitted last Thursday under warranty, No change !! Still coughs spits splutters and backfires above 4000rpm Fault code 2 Long 7 Short still flashing, which, by the way is not in your owners manual. So now waiting on a "Break Out Box" to be sent from WA. Apparently a diagnostic tool, so secret, that only the Tech's at KTM Australia have one ! I am guessing it allows full check of the loom in situ.
Magic Box turned up on Friday, problem found, a broken wire in the Harness down in behind the fuse box. I haven't inspected the temporary repair or the exact location as yet. As soon as I do i'll post more info. KTM are going to replace the harness under warranty as soon as one enters the country. Like the throttle body was , it's on back order !! Could be another 3 weeks yet ?!
2010 690R erratic engine idling solved finally
Sourced from: Post #18131 by Bumpaman

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24931995&postcount=18131

Hi all. Just wanted to share the experience of a good friend and riding partner that has been struggling with his 2010 690 Enduro R. The issue has been mostly with the engine idle and stopping. The problem began at about 20k miles and has been a problem for a year and a half. It began with the engine idle rolling up and down noticeably and this continued until the bike would not idle at all. The bike is normally ridden in the soft and standard settings and has an Akro can and a Uni filter with the appropriate akro maps loaded by the dealer. The dealer replaced the injector, the fuel regulator, the fuel pump and filter, spark plug, throttle sensor, oxygen sensor, adjusted valves, reloaded maps, throttle calibration, 15 minute idle. Throttle cable placement and condition were checked and ok'd. This was not all done at once but in stages and did not fix the problem. His dealer was at a loss and it seemed so was KTM tech. He took it to a different dealer with its history and also the info in a thread by motomochilla about throttle issues related to a plastic gear on the throttle body wearing out on high mileage bikes (somewhat different from my buddies problems but it seemed that this could have bearing). The dealer checked it out, and after trying a couple of things and talking to KTM, they replaced the throttle body (at KTM's expense it seems) and the problem was immediately solved. Seems mtomochilla is on to something here. After a few hundred miles everything remains normal with no hint of the idling issues. Don't know what the problem was exactly as the old throttle body was returned to KTM and no autopsy was performed. Well, there it is. A long (and expensive for my friend) hunt for a problem that we still don't know what it was exactly, but seems is related to the parts of the throttle body that cannot be replaced except for replacing a $1000 throttle body itself. Hope this helps someone out there.
2008 690 Not idling then the FI light comes on with 9 flashes "throttle position not plausible"
Sourced from: CDN Rick, Jun 13, 2017

Bike will not idle. Tried the throttle calibration reset and it makes no difference. I cannot do a 15 min reset since it won't idle. I'll be getting a TuneECU cable tomorrow. Is it possible that tight valves would cause it to start and run well at high rpm's but not idle? I'm pretty lost on this one. I've already taken the throttlebody out and cleaned it. Also checked the pump and lines. All good with them. 2008 690E. The bike already had an FMF Q4 slipon so I modified the airbox and loaded the Evo1 maps. Still does the same thing. The idle problem was present before the remap. No noticeable difference with the new maps. I also did turn off the SAS and the O2 sensor.
I'll try backprobing the TPS connector to see if the Voltage matches the screen. I may have to check the plastic drive gear as it is an 08. But the symptoms I'm experiencing don't really match with what others have described from that particular problem.
I borrowed a crimper from a friend last night and redid the main throttlebody connector with a new plug and pins. Got it all finished and put it back together. Pressed the magic button and it fired right up... and STALLED! As a last resort of frustration I grabbed an old spark plug from the back of my workbench and replaced the new one I had put in before my trip to Wawa. Pressed the magic button again and it fired right up and dropped into a nice idle!! I let it sit for a few minutes then turned it off. I connected TuneECU and checked the diagnostics. For some odd reason the THAD TPS voltage wasn't coming up on the screen. I fired the bike up and it was still gone but the bike ran and idled great. All of a sudden after 5 mins or so the idle quickly raised and the FI light came on. The TPS voltage appeared on the screen at .65V THAD and .71 APAD. Code came on for "Throttle position not plausible). I shut the bike off cycled the key. Voltages on diagnostics page remained the same but the FI light had cleared itself. Fired the bike back up and it idled perfect again.
Checked this morning and TuneECU read voltages .71THAD and .70 APAD without the bike running. Bike just did it again. Idled for 9 mins then the FI light came on, code for Throttle position not plausible came on. When opening and closing the throttle 15 times last night they fell into the correct voltage every time except once the THAD voltage dropped to .69V then immediately raised again to .70V. I'll try resetting them to .73V or so and see if that makes a difference. I've set TPS and APS voltages to .73V with the bike cold and the stepper motor disconnected. When I fire the bike up to do a 15min reset the TPS voltage drops as the bike heats up to .62V then the FI light comes on with 9 flashes "throttle position not plausible" and TuneECU shows a code for throttle position fault. If I cycle the key the codes disappear and when TuneECU reloads the voltage is still .62V. Then I open and close the throttle grip and when the voltages drop they both stay at .73V again. After spending a long time researching KTM EFI issues, reading way too many posts on forums, and carefully studying my wiring diagrams I came to the conclusion that it could be the Voltage Regulator causing a spike in power supplied to the ECU and giving a false reading on TPS voltages. The spikes were so fast that my multimeter couldn't pick them up. Thankfully the PO had purchased a Shindengen MOSFET Regulator that I intended to install at some point anyway. Skeptically I got it from the spare parts bin and installed it. Fired the bike up and it ran through its 15min idle reset procedure with no problems. I went for a hour plus ride this morning with no issues whatsoever!
WOHOOO! 4 weeks of fighting with this bike and I've finally got it all sorted out.
Chapter 9 - Screenshots

2011 TPS Values
Cool engine static throttle sensor readouts.
This one is with the throttle shut.

And Throttle fully open.

2011 Screenshots of my bike with EVO1 map installed.
At idle after about 5 - 10 mins running.

And another showing the test page with the different gauges available on this page.
Chapter 10 - Preventative Maintenance to Bulletproof your 2008-2013 KTM 690
My full build thread is here for reference, further info and pictures:

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...-rally-raid-build-and-history-so-far.1175453/

Also refer to the KTM 690 Hall of Wisdom for further tips and guides:
http://www.welikebikes.be/KTM690Wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page

TWO Golden rules:
DO NOT spray EFI related plugs with water dispersant (WD40) as it can vary the minute voltages used in EFI systems, just use isopropyl alcohol sprays and air dry.
DO NOT use a pressure washer to clean your bike EVER, EVER.
Electrical:
Upon delivery check all electrical grounds and clean paint from the surfaces to make a good connection, once connected spray with a wax rust proofer.
Check all harnesses for possible chafing, reroute and tywrap as required.
Remove the battery and mount tray as well as the tray on which the Fuse Block and Relays are mounted. Check all wires and terminals to the fuse block for damage and chafing. Check the main battery and starter thick cables for chafing and ensure they are correctly routed under the battery mount tray in the guide loops.

Fuel System:
The original pump is as good as any other once cared for correctly as per mods and additional servicing tasks below.
Fuel system mods:

Quite a few peoples breakdowns recently have easily been fixed by cleaning the little top hat filter in the fuel line to the injector. This little filter first appeared in about 2010 introduced by a KTM Tech Bulletin, it was originally fitted in the inlet elbow at the injector but in later bikes, maybe 2014 onwards, it was moved to the quick release coupling at the fuel tank. The fact that they were introduced by Tech Bulletin shows that they were an "after thought" from the original design and I think a waste of time. The injector itself has its own inbuilt gauze filter that can only be cleaned properly by removing the injector and professionally cleaning in an ultrasonic bath and after the pump there is a 10 micron paper filter. These little top hat filters seem to be too small for the fuel flow required at full power and the slightest amount of debris causes them to choke and limit full throttle causing a lean mixture and in some cases shutdown. Either clean it regularly or remove it and throw it in the bin its your choice. A 690 on full noise demands a lot of fuel and I believe this additional filtration is too restrictive. Pictures below of both installations.

Remove the internal filter from tank and fit submersible fuel hose to the pump pressure line from the pump to the grey quick disconnect fitting in the tank, this is to remove the internal filter and allow quick disconnect connection at the pump so it is easy to change if you have a pump fail on the trail. In Australia we use Gates submersible fuel hose P/N is 27093 and it can be ordered through Autobarn Stores and is about $40 AUD for one 300mm long piece. Use EFI fuel clamps and when you remove the plastic piping cut it such that you leave the moulded section on the pump and the quick disconnect fitting as this gives a bit of extra padding for the new hose to be a good positive fit, don't over tighten the clamps and crush the plastic but not too loose either as it is 50psi pressure. Don't bother changing the cooling flow line as I did as it is not necessary.

Whilst in there make sure the spade connectors to the pump are squeezed to make a real tight fit. Also run some lock wire between the two halves of the plastic pump canister as the release clips have been known to come undone.

Fit a profill filter (teabag type) P/N #HUS01 to the pump inlet.

http://www.profill-australia.com/e-store/STORE.html

Fit a 10 micron Canam filter P/N 709-000-100 in the pressurized fuel feed from the tank to the injector so it can easily be accessed on the trail and replaced, also must be away from heat sources. Suggest you fit this where the current quick disconnect is to remove that from the system as they tend to break.
Also put some spiral wrap around the fuel line in the area of the upper tank bolts as it can chafe badly here.

If you have additional fuel tanks such as Rally Raid or Safari put additional low pressure sintered bronze cleanable filters between the additional tanks and the rear tank to filter the gravity feed into the pump.

I always use a Mr Funnel Filter for refuels as it filters water and dirt.

http://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Home.html

Fit a raised CJ Designs billet filler on the rear tank to stop dirt ingress when opening the tank cap, this type has a nice little side fuel vent to save having anything poke out the top.
http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/products/billet-fuel-filler-neck-ktm-690-990-smt/

Servicing every 7500km
Change Profill pump prefilter - grey residue leaches out of the black rear fuel tank for the first couple of years.
Change Canam filter - carry spare on trail rides
Have the injector professionally cleaned and flow checked.
Only use the correct 10/60 oil - the rockers are prone to fail and rely on limited oil flow at the top end, later modified rockers are available.
Carry a spare pump - I recommend a CA Cycleworks pump.
http://ca-cycleworks.com/fp-hus-5680

Tank Mounts:
Fit Rally Raid upper and lower tank bolts, Standards break and bottom bolt is a crap design.
Ignition Exciter:
Make a bracket to support the electrical wire then recrimp the connectors and then tywrap the wires to the support bracket to stop them flexing on rides.

Sidestand cut out switch:
Get rid of the sidestand cut out switch. The proximity switch is actuated by a plastic target that like anything on a dirt bike it can get smashed. You just buy a KTM sidestand cutout connector or make up your own resistor. It's the same as the 990 and Duke cutout available from KTM.

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-950-990-...removal-switch

Performance Mods:
Three easy states of tune as follows:
1. Wings pipe only - Keep to standard mapping
2. Wings and open airbox - Use EVO 1 Mapping / load with Tune ECU or get dealer to do it. Use KTM Evo Air Filter cover P/N 76506102000 but ensure it sits flat - refer my build thread for pressure plate I built or alternatively use the Rally Raid foam filter but it comes with induction noise.
3. Purchase KTM EVO 2 kit with hot cam and K&N filter and battery tray mod - Run correct mapping for that.
After warranty expires:
Get set up with Tune ECU and set SAS and O2 to off.
Remove SAS ECO crap completely and run gearbox breather to pod filter in the dash
Remove O2 sensor and blank.
Pre 2014 Top Hat Filter is fitted in the injector inlet elbow:

2014 Plus the top hat filter is fitted in the quick release coupling by the fuel tank.
Chapter 11 - Fuel Cuts
I would like to do a whole chapter on "fuel-cuts" but I cannot find any hard facts about which sensors are monitored and whether an exceedance will cause a "fuel-cut" the next time you return to idle after you have an exceedance. I am fairly convinced this can and does happen but all the guides and info sources I found just touch on the subject but give no hard data. I would assume engine water temp being high would be the main initiator as rumour has it several road going sports bikes suffer "fuel-cut" only allowing restart after a cool off.
Although called "fuel-cuts" I believe the circuitry involved will cut fuel and ignition.
The side stand sensor and the rollover sensor definitely cause "fuel-cuts".

Rollover Sensor Story
Story from Barney ADV Inmate

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24887418&postcount=18012

I need some help with a no spark situation on my 08 690E. With the key on I have steady battery voltage on the + terminal of the ignition coil, have good continuity from pin 22 on the EFI controller connector to the - side of the coil and good ground to the coil. With the engine turning over, I'm getting about 1.8 VAC on my digital VOM from the ignition pulse generator and continuity through pins 23 and 24 on the EFL connector. I do occasionally get a spark or two on initial engine turn over, but that's it. Tried replacing the coil and cap thinking I have a HV short, no luck. So before I throw money at an EFI controller, what am I missing?
After lots of work on the wiring KTM Mitch pitched in:
We have found sometimes the Tilt Sensor behind the motor gets dirt in it & sticks the plastic pendulum, try tapping it with something, or try one off a bike that works. We always carry some in our rally kits, and you can't bypass it either.

Progress!
Tapping the rollover sensor didn't help, but I did make a very important observation last night that would've saved a lot of time had I noticed earlier. I usually wait for the display to initialize or at least 3 or 4 seconds before hitting start, but if I hit start immediately after key on, I'm consistently getting 5 or 6 sparks before they stop. Looks like the EFI controller is performing its checks and sensing a condition that's causing it to shut off the ignition. Just need to find out what that condition is now, hopefully it's an incorrect output from the rollover sensor. Thanks for pointing me in this direction.

Success!
The bike runs with the rollover sensor disconnected! Haven't ridden it yet, don't know if there are any side effects with it disconnected, but we have found the problem. My bike gets a flashing 15 code without the rollover sensor, runs perfect otherwise. It's an 08 with stock map as far as I know. I'll be replacing the sensor, but it's good to know I can get home without it.

Conclusion.
A good troubleshooting tip is to check for ignition before the EFI has completed its start up built in test, this will indicate if the EFI is preventing a start as it has recognised an issue during start up test. To do this follow what Barney did:

"I usually wait for the display to initialize or at least 3 or 4 seconds before hitting start, but if I hit start immediately after key on, I'm consistently getting 5 or 6 sparks before they stop. Looks like the EFI controller is performing its checks and sensing a condition that that's causing it to shut off the ignition".

If you get a fail to start with no FI Light the rollover sensor may have activated, there will be no FI light because it is doing its job. You can disconnect it to get you going but I advise you to replace it ASAP because an EFI bike can run upside down so you need the safety of the rollover sensor to cut the bike out in an accident.
Chapter 12 - 15 min idle stripped bare
Sourced from Inmate AMa as follows:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=22041591&postcount=304

Quoted from Wunderfest thread: Originally Posted by sprouty115
Just got back from my dealer. For $39, he loaded the "...233" map and did an abbreviated idle reset adaptation. Basically pushed the bike outside, started it up and let it idle until the fan came on then said I was good to go. I was always under the impression that it was supposed to be done with the engine cold? I figured I'd just do it myself tomorrow morning unless I was mistaken?
I have heard the same from few other sources. At least one of them is also a KTM dealer. In that case, the customer was advised to perform a longer idle next morning when the engine is cold again.

Let's start from the KTM 690 Service Manual:

Initialization run is advised to do after two things; adjustment of APAD and THAD voltages and ECU flashing (re-mapping). Both include adaptations reset, APAD+THAD operation icludes "ECU Reset" with diagnostics tool and flashing erases the adaptation as the new map is installed.

"Start the engine and perform a initialization run. Guideline: 15 min."

Nothing about throttle calibration or stone cold engine. I think this wisdom originates from here:

http://www.monomaniacs.nl/tnt/KTM-69...hrottle-issues

"2. Idle reset procedure
The 'famous' 15 minute idle reset procedure. This resets the adaptive base values of the ECU. It won't transform the bike but it can make a worthwhile improvement. It is very important that the engine is stone cold. One or two hours after riding is not enough! Do this after the bike has been off for a full night or day. Start the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes without touching anything. After 15 minutes, switch the engine off with the ignition key. Done. During this procedure you won't see or hear anything happening besides the idling and (probably) the fan. Don't worry, the reset is done. Besides after certain maintenance or parts replacement, you could consider doing it twice a year with the turning of the seasons. A reset for the colder autumn & winter period and one time for warmer conditions during spring & summer. This is not mandatory or needed and don't expect miracles."
Where does this come from? Maybe one possibility is KTM 990 initialization. From Tune ECU website:

"990cc models SD, SM, and Adventure:
After download from an new map, you must perform an initialization run.
The 990s must be on the center stand, and are thus stand vertically.

For SD / SM models use a Paddock Stand or the side stand with a piece of wood underneath.
The engine must be cold.
There should be the coolest possible air temperature outside, this can be very helpful for a lower fuel consumption.
Start the engine and let it run at idle for 15 minutes.
During these 15 minutes, not use the throttle or any other functions.
The 15 minutes need to be strictly adhered to, and must not fall below. The time can only be exceeded by a maximum of one minute.
Should the engine go out, then re-start ONLY, do not begin 15 minutes again". (Source: German KTM Forum )
If you want to perform an initialization run only, you must first reset in any case the adaptation.
(Source:
LC8 German KTM Forum )"
Sounds familiar to me. These are the guidelines that come up in many KTM sites now and then when discussing KTM 690 15 min idle also.

What does the ECU do during 15 min idle?

It is advised to do after ECU adaptations reset. Clearly the ECU has to adapt to something and I think that it has something to do with intake air temperature (IAT), manifold abolute pressure (MAP), amount of RPM and lambda voltage. Engine's suction and exhaust pressure are changed when hardware has been changed and so is engine's volumetric efficiency (VE) which has a lot to do with the injection pulse width. During the 15 min ECU adjusts injection pulse width and ignition advance as the IAT rises. I think that the ECU is aiming to a leanest possible mix that gives constant idle and is "learning" the right pulse width and ignition advance to whole IAT/coolant temp range. Or adapting to conditions, which are changed after hardware modding. If this is so, the 15 min is not needed for a new map per se, it is needed because the new map has no valid adaptations for current hardware. Also, then 15 min is important every time when hardware has been changed. For example a airbox cover removal or slip-on installation.

What I have experienced:

I have done 15 mins to stone cold, warm and hot engine, maybe 20 to 30 times after re-mapping my bike. Most of the times it has been done stone cold. I have never accomplished to get solid 15 min to warm or hot engine without stalling. Of course it is just my bike, I'm not saying it is impossible. There can always be something else. Also, when 15 min ends prematurely to stall, my bike has always had poor idle and driveability at low rpm. Once the 15 min has been done by dealer, warm engine, stalling and poor idling. The advise was "Well, maybe it gets better with time" .....

Conclusion:

I will do the 15 min initialization to stone cold just to be sure. It won't harm anything and I like to keep the loose ends out of the equation.
Chapter 13 - General 690 Troubleshooting Tips
A couple of things from issues I have seen with other mates's 690's I ride with:

Spark plug electrode cracking
Recently one guy suffered idle issues after drowning his bike in a river crossing, even after fully dewatering the bike he continued to have idle issues, a dealer eventually diagnosed an intermittent spark plug, he reckons the thermal shock of the drowning caused the central electrode to crack causing intermittent spark at low rpms, thought this was an interesting concept.

Spark plug cap shorting
After some deep crossings I have had minor issues and thought the worst due to all the fuel injection stories you hear but gone back to basics and a squirt of WD40 around the plug cap has bought it back to life, the caps on these don't seem to like water at all. It is easy sometimes to get blinded by the science with fuel injection and forget the basics of spark plugs and spark plug caps.

Difficulty starting due to injector not shutting off cleanly
Also I had a mate with difficulty in starting and it turned out to be the injector not shutting off cleanly and causing it to dribble after prestart priming, the dealer in this case fitted a new injector and charged him a fortune. My own experience is that you can use one of the mobile fuel injector cleaning guys, they can clean the injector, check the spray pattern as well as clearing the cut off dribble issues in most cases by cleaning and pulsing the injector. I now have my injector cleaned at each service to avoid issues as the screen filter inbuilt in the housing cannot be removed for cleaning so definately needs reverse flushing and these mobile service guys have the best and safest kit to do this.

Hope this helps,
Andy

richie777 and MymoJoe like this.
Great post mate.
Did you run out of beer/fuel/pot? :eek1 Just wondering what drove you to it.....
Cruz Lost but laughing.

Owning a 690...........
Aint that the truth !!
Just gotta figure out all of this stuff and they are a great bike.
Andy
Great thread!!!
Great thread Andy, very informative and detailed
I almost have a 690 on my shopping list for next bike. 2011 -14, R model of course.

There are just so many options for the 690 now you can make a very individual bike and with guys like yourself putting in the hard yards in DIY maintenance it's a real plus.

Lucky I still ride a Husky though
Chapter 8 updated with two more stories.
Andy

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Ktm Smc 690 R 2013

Source: https://advrider.com/f/threads/ktm-690-efi-2008-2013-idiots-guide.931664/

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